Found this website (via Ravelry) with step by step instructions for knitting socks. Have found it helpful to remind myself of certain parts so thought I’d just mention it here.
Found this article on how to disguise the colour shift when knitting stripes. Looks useful!
This is more of a note to myself, but this week we hosted a Professional Finishing Techniques workshop and the teacher demonstrated a new cast on method, ideal for ribbing. She called it an invisible cast on, but I found this article on knitty.com that refers to it as a tubular cast on, so that’s what I will call it.
She recommends using cotton for the waste yarn as it undoes easily.
It looks really neat and I will certainly try it sometime soon.
I’m currently knitting a cabled beret in Rowan Lima yarn and I noticed last night that I’d actually forgotten to cross a cable a few rows back. DOH! I did not want to rip back 8 rows so after a quick bit of googling I found this valuable post on the Yarn Harlot’s blog.
In it she shows how to drop the stitches concerned and using some DPNs fix a mis-crossed cable, or in my case, a missing cable.
She’s saved me hours of knitting!
I write this, as a note to myself more than anything, because twice in the past couple of days I’ve heard mention of this casting off technique for stretchy tops of socks (when knitting toe-up)
Jenny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off – http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php
I will try this when I do my first toe up sock.
I’ve only ever made two pairs of socks in my life – a pair last year for me (which were a little bit big if truth be told) and then a pair for my brother for Christmas. Both times I followed the simple sock pattern exactly and it is so clearly written that I just did what it said and it worked.
However I’ve been asked to knit a pair of socks for my best friend’s Dad and they need to be larger than normal, which means I have to modify the number of stitches of the pattern. Now the pattern author has been helpful in that she adds some notes at the end explaining that the heel flap is knitted using half the total amount of stitches, and the stitches picked up for the gusset is always a quarter of the total.
I came a bit stuck though, when trying to shape the heel. There was no note about how many stitches to work before turning on the first row of shaping. Fortunately a kind person on Ravelry explained that it is half the number of stitches plus 1. This was quickly followed by another tip from another Ravelry member that the number of rows worked in the heel flap is usually the same as the number of stitches in the heel flap. I hadn’t asked about this, but she saw my question and added it as a useful note. That’s why I love the Ravelry forums. There are so many helpful people!
So the “theory” of sock knitting is finally starting to click. In fact I’m really enjoying sock knitting right now. I discovered last night there are all sorts of different ways of doing heels and toes and knitting from the the toe up is very popular too. So I might try a different pattern at some point soon.
Heard a great tip today for working with Kidsilk Haze. When you go wrong with this yarn, it’s a bit of a pig to unknit (tink) or frog it.
Apparently, if you stick it in the freezer for 20 minutes, it makes the fibres stiff, and it’s much easier to tink it!
Good to know 😉