Sock Knitting for beginners

Found this website (via Ravelry) with step by step instructions for knitting socks. Have found it helpful to remind myself of certain parts so thought I’d just mention it here.

Silver’s Sock Class

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The Jogless Jog

Found this article on how to disguise the colour shift when knitting stripes. Looks useful!

http://www.socknitters.com/kickback/joglessjog.htm

A new cast-on method: Tubular Cast On

This is more of a note to myself, but this week we hosted a Professional Finishing Techniques workshop and the teacher demonstrated a new cast on method, ideal for ribbing.  She called it an invisible cast on, but I found this article on knitty.com that refers to it as a tubular cast on, so that’s what I will call it.

She recommends using cotton for the waste yarn as it undoes easily.

It looks really neat and I will certainly try it sometime soon.

More sock knitting tips

I write this, as a note to myself more than anything, because twice in the past couple of days I’ve heard mention of this casting off technique for stretchy tops of socks (when knitting toe-up)

Jenny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off – http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php

I will try this when I do my first toe up sock.

Learning the theory of sock knitting

I’ve only ever made two pairs of socks in my life – a pair last year for me (which were a little bit big if truth be told) and then a pair for my brother for Christmas.  Both times I followed the simple sock pattern exactly and it is so clearly written that I just did what it said and it worked.

However I’ve been asked to knit a pair of socks for my best friend’s Dad and they need to be larger than normal, which means I have to modify the number of stitches of the pattern.  Now the pattern author has been helpful in that she adds some notes at the end explaining that the heel flap is knitted using half the total amount of stitches, and the stitches picked up for the gusset is always a quarter of the total.

I came a bit stuck though, when trying to shape the heel.  There was no note about how many stitches to work before turning on the first row of shaping.  Fortunately a kind person on Ravelry explained that it is half the number of stitches plus 1.  This was quickly followed by another tip from another Ravelry member that the number of rows worked in the heel flap is usually the same as the number of stitches in the heel flap.  I hadn’t asked about this, but she saw my question and added it as a useful note.  That’s why I love the Ravelry forums.  There are so many helpful people!

So the “theory” of sock knitting is finally starting to click.  In fact I’m really enjoying sock knitting right now.  I discovered last night there are all sorts of different ways of doing heels and toes and knitting from the the toe up is very popular too.  So I might try a different pattern at some point soon.

Why knit a skirt in separate pieces?

I have to say this thought has crossed my mind whilst knitting the dress and I was wondering whether it would have been quicker in the long run to knit the skirt part in the round – I wouldn’t have to do purl rows then and I’m much quicker at knit stitch.

However this morning I noticed someone ask the same thing on Ravelry and the replies are worth remembering so I thought I’d make a note of them here:

  • As with sweaters, you want seams to keep the garment from stretching out. A skirt knit in one piece can stretch as you wear it and make the holes bigger and the skirt longer. Not something you want. By having a sewn seam at both sides, it helps keep the skirt from getting longer. (From YarnFloozy)
  • knitting in the round is actually knitting a spiral, and spirals tend to twist. If you knit in two pieces, you are knitting straight rows, and you won’t get that sideways torque that spirals develop. Knitted skirts tend to stretch out when sat in, and the spiral knit emphasizes that. (From )